A vintage kimono in Japan is ingrained in its tradition and came into existence prior to 300 A.D. when hemp was used as the material and the kimono was tied firmly with the aid of ropes to keep it in proper position. Over the following centuries, style has evolved and history has played a significant role in this. The customs which were in vogue at the Imperial Court, evolution of new dyeing procedures, and the availability of many alternative materials all played their part in the change of design patterns and fabric which were subsequently used.
The decorations of vintage kimono also depend on factors like, the gender of the person who would be wearing the kimono, the marital status of the person, the time/season of the year, and the specific occasion for which the kimono is intended to be worn. One very unique and beautiful style developed in the period of 792 A.D. – 1192 A.D., which was known as the Heian era. The design innovated during that time is still popularly used by the royal people of Japan’s Imperial Court during special gatherings and occasions. To be precise, the vintage kimono reflects Japan’s enduring spirit and appreciation of elegance and artistry.
There are many different types of kimonos and obis which are worn during various occasions, ranging from strictly formal to that of a casual gathering/party. Some popular types are being discussed for the convenience of those who are really intrigued by this style of dressing. For a very formal kimono, Kuro Tomesode is ideal for a married woman. This kimono has patterns only under the waistline and consists of usually five crests. The next vintage kimono for wedding gatherings is Uchikake which is alternatively known as the Japanese bridal/wedding kimono. For those who have a fascination for the tranquil color of white, Shiromuku is another option available which can be worn by a bride, having just pine/ chrysanthemum as the designs.
Then there is Furisode, which is a formal kimono for Japanese women who are unmarried. These kimonos are characterized by their long and swinging sleeves. If you want a kimono that can be worn by both married as well as unmarried women Homongi is the answer. During formal visits these can be conveniently worn by any Japanese women. A kimono which was exclusively worn by men till the end of Meiji period is Haori which is primarily a hip-length sort of a jacket. From the Meiji period this kimono also began to be worn by women with the length being slightly enhanced.
Textile happens to be one of the most important aspects of the ancient Japanese tradition. The techniques which were implemented for the purpose of weaving and dyeing were inspired by the procedures followed in China and Korea. In the 8th century, Japan was handed over brocade and bolts of silk. With the gradual passage of time vintage kimono fabric became all the more refined and appealing to the aesthetics, through constant research and innovation. This art of textiles is revered in Japan, and one can easily identify the mastery and dexterity that is utilized for making exotic kimonos.
First, we would trace as to how the material used as vintage kimono fabric evolved over the centuries. Initially, the formal kimono and the traditional obi belts were made of silk, silk crepes like cherimen, and silk brocades. Now as time passed, there appeared a dearth of skilled weavers/craftsmen and the production costs involved also started to escalate. The people also started to prefer fabric which would be easy to maintain and handle, and the price would also be not exorbitant. Cotton, cotton sateen, rayon, polyester and other varieties of synthetically made fibers fulfilled these criteria and hence slowly began to replace the ancient and traditional fabric of silk. Nowadays, even in strictly formal gatherings or occasions one finds the use of these genres of fabric barring a few exceptions like a wedding ceremony where a traditional silk wedding kimono is still used.
Implementing different strips of vintage kimono fabric various ingenious kimono patterns are devised. According to customs, patterns which are woven and the repeat patterns which are dyed are implemented in an informal kind of kimono. In case of a formal kimono the designs are presented in free-style format spread all over the surface or just being conspicuous along the hem. Previously, multilayered and multicolored varieties of style were used while wearing a kimono. As many as twelve or even more layers of multi-colored kimono used to be worn. During the present times though, the kimono is usually worn having a single layer over a slip-style undergarment.
During winters, flannel is used as a vintage kimono fabric and this is traditionally followed across Japan. However, flannel being very thick and heavy somewhat makes it suffocating for the person who is wearing it. Alternatively, cotton can also be used as the fabric which imparts softness, warmth and comfort making it appropriate for a cozy wintry season.
An artistic and intricately designed vintage Japanese kimono is the true indicator of Japan’s respect for traditional elegance and creative refinement .A kimono is formally acknowledged to be the traditional Japanese attire. All people in Japan, irrespective of gender, age and background wear a kimono. For an outsider the subtle variations in the kimonos might be hard to distinguish, but actually the kimono has various different wearing styles, patterns and colors, all influenced by factors like age, sex and the marital status of women. The time of the year and the specific occasion for which the kimono is intended to be worn also affects the kind of kimono worn and the fabric used.
There has been a constant evolution of vintage Japanese kimono through many centuries and consequent periods of Japanese rule. The kind of style which was followed and popularized by the royal families also influenced the style of national wearing. Each era has got its own unique trait, and the styles in vogue in one period were distinctively different than that of another period. For instance, if we take a look at the kind of kimonos which were worn during the Jomon era, we will find the style and patterns to be different from that of, say, the Edo period. Obviously, the panache and elegance that were displayed by the Royal family were a class apart from the rest and were hard to be imitated by the common Japanese people. Even now, the royal people of the Imperial court during occasions of marriage and coronation stick to the vintage Japanese kimono style of the Heian period.
Women wear kimonos in a manner which reflects their fascination for bright colors and floral prints. According to tradition, an unmarried woman in Japan would be wearing a kimono having sleeves which reach up to her ankles. The name for this category of vintage Japanese kimono is Furisode. On the other hand, a married woman would be wearing a kimono having sleeves whose lengths are much shorter. Women also wear Obi/sash which is long and wide, nearly 1 foot widthwise and lengthwise up to 13 feet. Various elaborate styles were devised in this kind of clothing. Some specially designed and customized versions of kimonos take as much as thirty minutes just for tying the dress. Japanese brides are seen wearing white kimonos, and above that they wear a red/orange over-Kimono during occasions like formal receptions or other formal gatherings.
When it comes to Japan or Nippon as it is known in Japanese, there are some aspects that are so very distinctive and unique about its culture, its cuisine as well as attire. If sushi and sake are distinctive aspects of Japanese cuisine, one cannot but mention kimonos as distinctive ingredients of Japanese couture. Kimonos happen to be special robes that are worn by Japanese men, women and children too and these are associated with culture that is intrinsically Japanese in nature. If you look at the types of kimonos, you will find that there are quite a few men’s kimonos that one can look at and evaluate also.
Kimonos are the t-shaped robes that are traditionally worn in Japan, generally during festive and religious occasions. There used to be a time when these men’s kimonos used to be worn as a matter of daily life all across Japan. With the exposure to Western culture, times have changed and one finds that many Japanese men now wear Western attire, with the traditional or national dress being relegated only to certain special occasions. The word kimono literally wears ‘thing to wear’ which is quite apt as kimonos have been part of the Japanese way of doing things for ages now. Nowadays it is seen that men’s kimonos are worn much less frequently as compared to women. Some of these are also worn by Sumo wrestlers before they get into the ring to fight, but this has more to do with style and tradition and not so much of functionality.
When it comes to men’s kimonos, one would expect these to be less ostentatious and colorful as compared to women’s kimonos that are more gaudy, colorful and sometimes more attractive too. The women’s kimonos are also a shade longer as compared to those for men, which is a function of the gender differences that are also reflected in attire.
In Japan, like all other kimonos, men’s kimonos are also designed keeping in mind the weather conditions that could vary at different times of the year. These are reflected in the designs as well as the style of kimonos. Some of the shorter types of these kimonos for men are known as Haori and are able to depict hidden pictures in the lining, which adds to the look and its inherent glamour.
One can have a look at various kimonos for men online as there are so many websites that list all types of kimonos, to suit every taste and pocket too.
A Japanese silk kimono is a very exclusive material and finding a proper place to purchase one is not always that easy. If ultimately you do get hold of one store selling these exotic dresses, you might realize that the price is way out of your budgetary capabilities. So, why don’t you try to make one yourself? Does it sound that tough? Let us see the steps involved.
1. First measure that portion of torso that has maximum thickness. Add approximately 10 inches with this figure. Divide the resultant number by two; this will signify how wide your central panels should be.
2. Then stretching out your arms in a straight manner, take the measurement of the length between the edges of your ankles to the topmost portion of your shoulders. Once you get this figure, you have found out the sleeve panels’ width of the Japanese silk kimono. For the length simply double this figure. Two such panels would be required, which would be attached with the aid of a fold at the upper portion.
3. Now spread out your Japanese silk kimono and then fold it along half its length. Demarcate any one sleeve by taking the measurement of its width fold-wise and right up to the length downwards which was previously measured. Then pin both the sides of the cloth together and cut them. The same activity is to be performed for second sleeve too.
4. For the panels of the torso, similarly fold the materials in a half-lengthwise manner. Measure the torso panel widthwise and running along the top in a fold-wise manner. Make the mark with pins, so that they go through both the parts of the fabric. From Step.1 you have got the requisite figure of width for your central panels, now mark out that length and pin together. Try to maintain a gap of 6 inches in between the pins to avoid the material from sliding. Once this is done, cut out the panel.
5. Then sleeve panels need to be pinned with the torso panels and the alignment of each fold is carefully maintained. The correct sides are all kept together in this alignment. Now make a long ridge of approximately 0.5 inch width on either side by sewing all the folds together.
6. Now hem the lower portion of both the sleeves of this garment and your Japanese silk kimono has been made at home.
Carefully have a look at Japanese kimonos, and surely you are going to get a glimpse of Japan’s century old rich cultural heritage and textile artistry. With the gradual unfolding of Japan’s history there has consequently been an evolution of Japan’s kimono style. During the onset, the kimono was merely a piece of utility which was made of hemp and was loosely tied onto the wearer. This primitive style was prevalent during the Jomon period. The time was roughly around 300 B.C. and the Final Jomon period was reaching its end. In essence the Mesolithic style of culture was evident, although some Neolithic traits like activities of pottery making were also displayed.
During the subsequent Yamato period, further changes were noticed. The kimono started to consist of two pieces, one for the upper portion and the other for the lower segment of the body. Now during this time many Chinese people also started to enter and settle down in Japan and their arrival made a significant change in the fabric used for Japanese kimonos. The Chinese for the first time introduced silk worms in the land of Japan, and also imparted their knowledge and expertise in the field of silk-weaving from these worms. Also they introduced a primitive Chinese style of clothing known as Hanfu, which many costume experts believe had a significant influence on the Japanese kimonos to be introduced later. Hence the earlier two-piece kimono started to be made of white silk as the technology of dyeing had still not been devised in Japan at that stage.
Next, with the onset of the Asuka Period, the emergence of clans became prominent and the Japanese Emperor also emerged. Stratification was done based upon the varying levels of aristocracy and the kimono was segregated into three distinctive groups, viz., formal, uniform and court. Advancements in sewing techniques were also made and the kimonos started having wider and longer sleeves. Colors were introduced for the first time, though in a single format. The dyeing techniques evolved further and even more colorful clothing started to be devised during the ensuing Nara Period (710 – 792 A.D.). During the consequent Heian Period Japan reached the summit of cultural richness and love for artistic creativity. The art of wearing layered robes by women emerged during this period and Juni-hito (twelve layers) was introduced in the horizon of Japanese kimonos.
After that Japanese kimonos underwent many further changes with the latest style of kimonos in the present century stressing on factors of easy usability and easy-care fabric which would also be fashionable.